Hawthorn Progress: Bodice Finished!

Hello!  Things have been really crazy for me the last couple of weeks so I just this morning finished the bodice for version 2 of the Hawthorn dress.  I’m hoping that I’ll be able to catch up by the weekend, but between packing and orientation to become a volunteer at the zoo (!!!) I’m not sure that will happen.  But I am working from home tomorrow so I am planning to take a couple fo sewing breaks.

So, when last we left things I was doing a whole bunch of fittings.  I finally got to a point where I felt comfortable cutting into my actual fabric!  So I cut out all the pieces and interfaced them, a la the sew along.  And then I made a collar for the first time!

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Holla(er), it’s a colla(r)!

But sadly there was one issue – remember when I took an extra inch in for each back dart?  Yeah, I did not factor that in when I made the collar.  So I pinned it and it looked like this.

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Whoopsies.

Yeah.  That’s what it looks like when you have an extra 2″ on your collar.  Math = magic.  So I recut/interfaced/sewed and finally attached the actual collar.  When I recut, I just moved the fold edge of the piece an inch off the fabric.  And huzzah!

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A collar that fits!

When I sewed all the darts I actually basted them, in case I needed adjustments after I put everything together.  I just didn’t quite trust the swedish tracing paper since it was so much stiffer than the fabric.  So I put in the facing (I thought I had put it in wrong, and unpicked the entire thing, before realizing I had actually done it correctly.  That’s what I get for sewing while very sleepy) and then put it on to see how everything looked.  Sorry for the bathroom mirror picture and the lighting in this one.

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It fit pretty well!  Because of the adjustments the neckline is slightly different than it is supposed to be, but I think it is still flattering.  The only thing I didn’t love was that it felt quite roomy below the bust, although the waist fit ok.  I decided to just take the front waist darts up higher and here’s how it looks after I finished that his morning!

ImageI’m not sure if you can tell the difference in the pictures, but it is a big difference in person.  It’s still a little roomy there but I’m hoping once the skirt is attached it will look great.  If not, I can always take it in a little more!  Also, this is before the darts were sewn with a regular stich and pressed, so it should look better once that happens, too.

Oh, and remember how I took all of that fabric out of the top back?

ImageYeah, definitely glad I did that.  It fits great!  Just FYI, the back of the collar is now technically a size 6, while the sides are a size 18.  Who knew.

Also, I decided to do a tiny bit of extra work on the seams so it would look extra nice on the inside.

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Fancy seams!

I thought about french seams but I wanted them to be open, and I thought about attaching binding but I didn’t have any, so all I did was tuck the edges under and sew.  It looks extra cute on the inside and you can’t even tell from the outside.  So yay!  These will be more annoying on the skirt because the seams are longer, but I think it’s worth it.

My take away from the dress so far, other than it turning out pretty cute, is that I really need to learn about fitting.  Mayhaps a fitting book or a craftsy class is in my near future…

Until next time,

Karin

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6 thoughts on “Hawthorn Progress: Bodice Finished!

  1. It looks like a great fit! I too used my seam ripper more than I want to say but I guess that is what they are for! Can’t wait to see the finished product.

  2. It’s coming along great, I like your fabric choice! As for fitting, by the best book on fitting I have read is Dressmaking for Real Women by Lorna Knight. It covers everything and has great photos/illustrations. I got it out from the library so it was free 🙂

    • Thanks for the suggestion! I got a craftsy class about fitting, but I think it would be nice to have a hard copy resource, too. I’ll definitely look into that one.

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